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Exhaust Hose

 
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shawn_carlson
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Location: Tuckerton, New Jersey

PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2007 2:12 pm    Post subject: Exhaust Hose Reply with quote

Anyone have any ideas on an easy way to replace an exhaust hose on a Chrysler 318. I would like to avoid taking off the heat exchanger and riser, but don't see another way.

Those rigid hoses are a major pain to slide into place.
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changeofpace
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Joined: 12 Oct 2006
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Location: New Haven CT - Long Island Sound

PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 9:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shawn, I pulled the Y-pipe that connects both hoses to the muffler to put my new hoses on. Granted, my engines are chevy 350's but with the Y-pipe off, you can install the new hose and then bend the hose to the muffler up to one side and align the Y-pipe with the edge of the hose and then pull the muffler hose back. For me the Y-pipe was fiberglass and the muffler hose slid right on. I fought with trying to put the new hose on with everything in place but it was a real pain. By unhooking the muffler hose from the Y-pipe, you dont need to replace any gaskets, just a couple of hose clamps
Hope this helps
Terry
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shawn_carlson
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Terry,

Great idea. I hadn't thought of that. Thanks.

Shawn
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shawn_carlson
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2007 10:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Resolution.

I disconnected the muffler. This gave me enough movement to line up the Y joint and the exhaust hoses. Once everything was clamped, I put a little duct tape around some of the joints and reattached the muffler.

If anyone has a good way to force the exhaust hose over the riser or the Y joint I'd love to heard it. I greased the pipe and had three of us pushing and still didn't get enough of an overlap for me to be 100% satisifed.
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leokow
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Location: Osborn Island, NJ.(Little Egg Harbor)

PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2007 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shawn, you need some WD40 and a hammer and piece of wood, you need to take the tail piece off the riser and use the wood to tap the hose extra far up the tail piece then slip onthe other end over the exhaust and tap the hose back down to center it so there is enough hose to clamp both sides.
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shawn_carlson
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2007 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats pretty much what i did.. still a major pain. Each joint is on at least two inches (more than enough to clamp). I'm probably being too picky.
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Anonymous
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2007 5:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

any kind of lube will attract little nasty rust partical's and hold them in your way, my self i kept everything dry, used a wire brush on a drill and rag to knock off and then wipe off as much of the flakeing as i could, if you CAREFULLY, heat the hose with a propane tourch {barring gas fume's}!!!!, this will aid in slideing it on ,yes it is very tough to get on ,but i cannot agree with beating it on, nor did i. my only regret was not painting the y before i put it back on.
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changeofpace
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2007 7:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I didnt like beating the hose on either, in a different post I said that I used a block of wood and a small sledge to tap the hose on. I didnt use any oil or lube either since I didnt want to have problem with tryig to get the hose off again down the road. I didnt have to wire brush mine since thet were new
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leokow
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2007 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry for the way I worded what I was trying to tell Shawn to do, I didn't mean to beat it on , just use a block of wood to tap it up far enough to give him enough room to tap it back down onto the exhaust end. If you have 2 inches on each end Shawn , that's OK. My entire piece between the tailpiece end and the beginning of the exhaust was only 4 inches total.
If you use something like PB Blaster for a lube you won't have any rust problems after it's connected. Once it's all hooked up , there's no way it can come undone, there's just not enough room for it to slip off.
Again ,guys, sorry about the beating inference, if it doesn't fit somethings wrong, nothing should ever be beaten on.Except me , once in a while.LOL
C you all later....Leo
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shawn_carlson
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2007 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Solution

Stupid me didn't realize they made exhaust a 3 1/8 inside diameter. Threw out the old 3" hose (which leaked) and bought a section of 3 1/8". Slide right into place, double clamped and good to go. Wish I had done that the first time.

Shawn
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rebait
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Joined: 27 Oct 2006
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Location: Bayville, N.J.

PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2007 9:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shawn,

Don't be hard on yourself. Experience is the best teacher. Every mechanic, no matter how long you have been doing it, learns something everyday, no matter how simple or if it exists. It happens in every trade and you would be surprised of how many different ways there can be to do a job. Remember: There is the RIGHT WAY, THE WRONG WAY and THE WAY THAT WORKS.

John
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shawn_carlson
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2007 7:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It was no big deal and lesson learned. The wife got a good laugh about it.
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changeofpace
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2007 7:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well I did pretty much the same thing once before on a different boat, spent the better part of a day trying to figure out how to stop a leak on an exhaust hose only to realize the hose needed to be clamped higher up due to the groves that were cut into the riser, no matter how well the clamp was on, the water kept leaking from the groves!!
I found their are two type of schools for learning, the kind surrounded by 4 walls and the school of hard knocks where the lessons learned are usually not easily forgotten
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shawn_carlson
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2007 10:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This falls under one I won't forget. Terry, Good luck with your boat.
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