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Gas Tank material, 26' 1969 Alglas/Pacemaker

 
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roger
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Joined: 06 May 2007
Posts: 3
Location: Norfolk, VA

PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2007 9:31 am    Post subject: Gas Tank material, 26' 1969 Alglas/Pacemaker Reply with quote

Hey all,
Could use some help in figuring out if the two 35 galleon gas tanks in my '69 alglas are iron or monel. As they're 38 years old I expected to see rust but I haven't so far, (think monel), but then again it just could be that they're iron and been well protected with paint. Does anyone know whether the original tanks on 26' pacemaker/alglas boats were iron or monel, and, if they're monel, that means that except for dealing with accumulated sludge and water in the tanks, they're probably ok for the future.
Roger
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merwin10
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Joined: 11 Oct 2006
Posts: 440
Location: Buzzards Bay, Massachusetts

PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2007 1:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good for you! Back then they made the tanks out of monel. Don't try to replace them today, big $$$$$$!!! The only thing you need to worry about is the wear points on the saddles. After many years of pounding the places where the tank meets the boat, Saddles, tend to wear the tank thru - Ask some of the others that have replaced the tanks cause of this - One sure test for monel is a magnet - some monel, which is a alloy, do contain small amounts of iron - for the most part the magnet will not stick to monel as it does with steel or iron -

Mike - Wink
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roger
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Joined: 06 May 2007
Posts: 3
Location: Norfolk, VA

PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2007 8:42 am    Post subject: Gas Tanks and more Reply with quote

Thanks, Mike.
It's very helpful to have confirmation about the tanks. With the $1000's saved the next big thing is replacing the engine--a late 1970's 305 crusader that's spilling oil in the bilge and putting water in the crankcase, ugghh. The interesting thing is to try to figure out which of the many alternative levels of build to get. -- a remanufactured long block $1700; a new base engine $2500 (adding the head, oil pan to the long block; a "powerpak special" adding intake manifold, carb, fuel pump, recircul. water pump, to the base engine (but lacking alternator, starter, raw water pump, wiring harness + instruments, etc. $3500; or, finally, a new "crate" engine with everything, $8 000.
Given that keeping costs down is a priority, and that the yard charges $80/hr for labor, and says pulling the old engine and moving the parts needed to the new engine will take about 15 hours ($1200) it's an interesting game to figure which way to go. I'm leaning toward the powerpak special on the theory the less the yard touches the better off I am but it's expensive for this restoration as I still have forward deck delamination and window leakage problems to deal with. Thanks for your advice about the monel tanks. This is fun.
Roger Shocked
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merwin10
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Location: Buzzards Bay, Massachusetts

PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2007 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Frankly I would go with the the crate FWC engine and do it myself! First you get a warrenty next is it is all one piece and the transmission will be new - It won't take lonf to run the bill up in labor for unseen issues - One rusted bolt breaking off can add several hours to the labor - New crate engine comes with everything new and you don't need to figure out the harness it is done - You have four motor mount bolts - some hose to the raw water two exhaust hose and four bolts to the coupler - done!

If I may suggest something - while you have the engine out clean the bilge and paint it - with bilge kote. Next fabricate a stainless steel pan to go under the engine this will keep all that oil and antifreeze and what ever else out of the bilge! Several of us have these pans and they cover from about 8" forward of the engne to 10" aft of the transmission about 4" deep. One nice thing is to install a protected 12 volt light under there - In that way you can just flip the lights on and see every well under the engine - Makes a nice display also - touch of class!

Just remember details make the restoration a thing of beauty!

Good Luck!

Mike - Rolling Eyes
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rebait
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Joined: 27 Oct 2006
Posts: 482
Location: Bayville, N.J.

PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2007 10:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Roger,

I agree with Mike. Go for the new complete crate engine. I am in the process of swapping out my tired 350 in my Wahoo. I was originally planning a new complete Mercruiser package with the Smart System until a friend of mine offered me a recently rebuilt Crusader 350, identical to mine. I freshened it up over the winter. I am planning on installing it in 3 weeks. It would have been done sooner but we have been working almost every Saturday and family commitments have put a damper on it. With the crate package you also have a warranty and everything is new. If I have any problems at all, next season it will be a complete new drive line.

John
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leokow
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Joined: 12 Oct 2006
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Location: Osborn Island, NJ.(Little Egg Harbor)

PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2007 11:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello Roger, well I guess it's unanimous, I too say go with the crate engine from crusader, I've been the other route and what you save on one hand you spend with the other. I was once charged $40. because I forgot to disconnect the fuel line from the engine when they were supposed to lift it out. Actually, I had put it back on finger tight because I was worried about siphoning gas coming out of the line with it just laying there disconnected.

You can get a 5.7 litre (350ci) 320 HP classic carb from crusader for $6999 and it's complete, fresh water cooled and worth every penny,
It has cost me more than that to re do a chrysler 318 starting with a long
block for $1800,by the time I was done $7000 was a bargain.

I don't know how you feel about fuel injection but my opinion says stay with the carb, much less to go wrong and better fuel economy as long as you stay off opening those secondaries.
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roger
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Joined: 06 May 2007
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Location: Norfolk, VA

PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2007 12:35 pm    Post subject: Crate Engine Reply with quote

It's good advice guys. I know from experience how yard mechanics or their bosses can turn an estimated $500 job into a $2000 job and then get p.o.'d when you complain about it. And we all know what happens when, as you say Mike, an old bolt breaks off and it takes hours to get it out. It's just that I hadn't gotten my head into spending that kind of money for a new engine, but the advantages you describe are real. On the other hand I've finally found the downside of early retirement, can't afford everything I want for my boat. So, a complete engine is the answer. First I'll try to find a site that offers a complete rebuilt engine with all the add on parts in place, at spec if not new. If I can't find such a site it's new crate engine time. Ouch. Thanks for the help.
Roger :roll:
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rebait
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PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2007 10:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Leo,

Good point about sticking with the carb instead of the fuel injection. Who knows what can happen with a winter lay over with the ethanol fuel.

John
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