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shawn_carlson Lieutenant
Joined: 12 Oct 2006 Posts: 156 Location: Tuckerton, New Jersey
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Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 9:51 am Post subject: I might be crazy |
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Background: Bought a 1972 28' Pacemaker that had sat for at least 4 years. I replaced the starboard engine early summer. Port engine (other than a tuneup) still original. Engines are Chrysler 318's.
I might be a little paranoid, so feel free to tell me I'm just over analyzing things. I took the boat out for a run yesterday and noticed the exhuast on my port engine has a little more smoke than my starboard engine. Honestly, not enough to concern me if I didn't notice it compared to the starboard engine. My fear is the manifolds are on their last leg. I had hoped to change them this winter/spring, but I maybe I shouldn't wait. Is the excess exhaust a sign that I shouldn't wait.? Its more likely its just an old engine that smokes a bit, but figured I'd ask just to be safe.
Temps, oil pressure etc.. were good on both engines.
Thanks.
Shawn |
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changeofpace Site Admin
Joined: 12 Oct 2006 Posts: 599 Location: New Haven CT - Long Island Sound
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Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 10:29 am Post subject: |
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Shawn, run a compression test on all of the cylinders, Its possible you have some bad valve seals or the valves are not seating entirely. Not sure what the compression should be on 318's but they should all be pretty close to each other. If the compression readings are good, then start to think about the manifolds. There is not a lot of boating season left here in the Northeast, so I'd say just watch and listen and do the rest when you come out of the water
Terry |
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shawn_carlson Lieutenant
Joined: 12 Oct 2006 Posts: 156 Location: Tuckerton, New Jersey
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Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 12:28 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Terry.. I was actually going to replace the engine last winter, but it ran well so i figured I'd continue to use it and replace it down the line. I'll continue to run it and hopefully get through fall striper season. If it turns out to be anything major, I'll just go with my original plan to replace it.
Shawn
Last edited by shawn_carlson on Mon Sep 17, 2007 6:05 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Jeremy Swabby
Joined: 10 Sep 2007 Posts: 8 Location: Florida
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Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 4:48 pm Post subject: |
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I agree on running a compression check. I can't recall what normal 318 readings should be, but they should all be within 10 - 15% of each other.
I'd be inclined to believe that it needs valve stem seals if it runs fine otherwise.
You can do them without taking the engine apart, but you'll have to pressurize each cylinder with air & get the proper spring compressing tool. Another trick I've used instead of compressed air is to get a piece of rope & work it into the cylinder, making sure to leave enough sticking out the spark plug hole to pull it back out. Then gently roll the engine over by hand to bring the piston to the top of it's bore. The rope will take up space in the combustion chamber and hold the valves in place while you remove the springs & replace the seals. |
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rebait moderator
Joined: 27 Oct 2006 Posts: 482 Location: Bayville, N.J.
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Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 9:53 pm Post subject: |
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Shawn,
Check your oil level and look for signs of water in the oil. The smoke depending on color ( white: coolant in the cylinder) may mean that you have a bad head gasket or a head problem. I recall us at work doing a number of head jobs on our Dodge trucks with 318s. In fact in 1976 I did heads on a friend of mines 1972 Luhrs. Turned out to be a bad head gasket. Most of the time it was just the gaskets, but we checked out the heads to avoid problems later. If no water in the crankcase I would go fishing, enjoy myself and keep an eye on the gauges. A compresion test can be done when winterizing. Then you can plan your attack. Jeremy, that is a first for me about using a rope to hold the valve in place. Good idea. I will have to run that past the guys in the shop. I know of one guy that will swear that his uncle does it like that all the time. Shawn, heads on a 318 are not hard to do when changing the manifolds. If the compression is good and the smoke is not excessive, the engine does not consume oil and everything is running fine, why look for extra work.
Tight Lines,
John |
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Jeremy Swabby
Joined: 10 Sep 2007 Posts: 8 Location: Florida
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Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2007 2:29 am Post subject: |
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rebait wrote: |
Shawn,
Jeremy, that is a first for me about using a rope to hold the valve in place. Good idea. I will have to run that past the guys in the shop.
Tight Lines,
John |
I learned that trick from one of my dad's friends, who was an old school hot rodder going way back into the 50s & 60s. I was skeptical, but I tried it on an engine when I couldn't find the rig I used to pressurize the cylinders with air. Not saying that it'd work with all engines, but I bet it'd work on most. |
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shawn_carlson Lieutenant
Joined: 12 Oct 2006 Posts: 156 Location: Tuckerton, New Jersey
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Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2007 9:32 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for the help. Its really hardly noticable, just me being paranoid. Hate to spend all summer getting the boat ready for the fall and be held up because I missed something.
Not burning oil, no water in the crankcase. Fishing it is.. |
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changeofpace Site Admin
Joined: 12 Oct 2006 Posts: 599 Location: New Haven CT - Long Island Sound
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Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2007 2:59 pm Post subject: |
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Shawn, saw a boat here that would start giving off steam as soon as the engine warmed up. No water in the oil, no burning of oil. No sweet smell you would expect if the anti-freeze was being flashed into steam and coming out the exhaust. The steam never started until the engine warmed up and stopped after the boat ran for a few minutes. Turned out his muffler has an internal leak, that let the salt water into the glass packing. When the muffler heated up, the water turned to steam and stopped after it dried out. Check your exhaust flappers and make sure they work ( this boat didn't even have any). Could also be a pinhole in the riser letting a small amount of water into the cylinders. I don't think so since the exhaust pressure should prevent the water from entering the cylinders. After the season ends, pull your risers and check out the passages and exhaust
Terry |
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