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Wood repair/refinishing?

 
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Jeremy
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Joined: 10 Sep 2007
Posts: 8
Location: Florida

PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 3:07 pm    Post subject: Wood repair/refinishing? Reply with quote

As some of you are aware, I'm a new guy with a recently purchased 75 Pace. The boat sat for a long time with little or no care, and as a result I'm going to have to do some woodwork.

Now, I've got woodworking skills & fiberglass skills, but I've never applied them to a boat. My college major was drafting & design & I've done my fair share of house wood work and then another hobby of mine has been in the field of audio/video and I've built lots of custom things from wood & fiberglass.

However, I'm wondering what the best way to attack the wood on this boat. The insides of the cabin aren't too bad, in fact I think just a good cleaning will take care of most of it. But the exterior on the back of the cabin needs some attention, and the bulkheads on either side of the back will need reconstruction. Currently this is how it looks :





As you can see, the bulkhead wood is pretty bad, but the cabin itself is solid although the wood is heavily discolored from exposure. I've no problem cutting new wood for the sides, but what should I do about the cabin? My original thoughts (from house restorations) would be to sand the wood, and then seal with a product like Kilz, followed by a sealer that'll hold up to exposure. Any thoughts about this? I've considered trying to sand and restain to bring out an original looking wood finish, but I'm not sure that it'd come out looking word a darn. Thoughts? Suggestions? Thanks in advance!
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changeofpace
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Joined: 12 Oct 2006
Posts: 599
Location: New Haven CT - Long Island Sound

PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There used to be a site that dealt with it, I think I might have posted it somewhere here before, but its Dr Rot and he deals with all kinds of wood repairs. basically, you need to kill all of the mold and then go after the rotted wood. With the Dr Rot stuff, I think its injected into the rotted wood and strengthens it. Its an epoxy sealer that is used. I know about kilz, but that will only cover the mold and prevent it from bleeding through, Try killing the mold with ammonia, then scrub with a soft cleanser and allow to dry. Check for rotted wood with a screwdriver, gently pushing the tip into the wood

here is the site

http://www.rotdoctor.com/L/BoatL/Bqa.html
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Jeremy
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Joined: 10 Sep 2007
Posts: 8
Location: Florida

PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 9:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank. Smile I'll definitely give that site a thorough read.
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capt mike
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Joined: 05 Jan 2007
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 12:32 am    Post subject: it's not that bad Reply with quote

as I look I see the 1/4 inch may be roted but I can't tell for sure just replace it 1/4" is cheap ask the seller if they have top sheets I bought 15 sheets for $10.00 a sheet,,,,,,, try thinner it takes my old varnish off.

Ok maybe I am not the norm but,,,,,,, just start with one thing, that's all. untill it is fixed then one more thing. It is not one big job. it is a few little jobs, then a few more. It's like cutting grass if when you bought your house you had to cut your grass 500 times you wouldn't but a house. You got to spreed that out over 25 what ever years

look at my website and you can see how far I have sense 11/2006 you can to. No one said it would be all easy. Most people that make 100k a year or more work there ass off so if you want something nice then you have to work for it or make the $1,500.00 a month payments. yes you still have to work your ass off.
Just think of how many hours they have to work to pay for that new boat at $300k and making $50.00 an hour or about $2,500.00 a week ,,,,, by the time they get it paid off the will have worked over ten thousand hours to pay for that boat...... and the say my boat is a lot of work well at least I paid cash
http://www.yachtworld.com/core/listing/boatDetails.jsp?currency=USD&units=Feet&currencyid=100&boat_id=1464792&checked_boats=1464792&back=%2Fcore%2Flisting%2Fcache%2FsearchResults.jsp%3Ftype%3D%2528Power%2529%2BMotoryacht%26hmid%3D0%26sm%3D3%26enid%3D0%26luom%3D126%26currencyid%3D100%26toLength%3D36%26cit%3Dtrue%26boatsAddedSelected%3D-1%26ftid%3D0%26fromPrice%3D10000%26ps%3D30%26slim%3Dquick%26is%3Dtrue&searchtype=
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Morning Wood
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Joined: 19 Sep 2007
Posts: 9
Location: Allen,Md.

PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 6:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

In the long run it is quicker to replace plywood than try to refinish it. The weather gets too far in the top layer and the color won't come back. In your location there are several places that sells Sapele. It is a close match to the Ribbon Stripe Mahogany that Pacemaker used. This is as close as you can come to original factory look. If that plywood on the bulkhead is one piece you can buy Sapele as a good both sides laminate. As for the Mahogany trim, it will sand and regain it's color pretty easy if the grain is not raised too much and is still solid in the joints. You will have to play with the stains to match what is in the rest of the cabin. The stuff is a little more than What Capt. Mike was talking about. With that much surface area in the Wheelhouse a sharp looking grain would make a dramatic statement. For sealing and joining joints of Mahogany I recommend WEST SYSTEM. It is very user friendly and I have had great long lasting results with it. As long as the edges of plywood are sealed it will last a long time. If there is any water intrusion on the edges then you will see dark spots and that is the beginning of the end. Good Luck and enjoy.
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